Bodegas RE is an absolute gem of a find for a perfect wine tasting afternoon. But first – story time!
The Casablanca wine valley has been on my list since before I even visited Chile. I missed it entirely on my first visit, owing to a disastrous group tour of Valparaíso that got timings so delayed, I ended up bailing out early to catch my flight and never made it to the wine region I’d heard so much about. I was obviously pretty peeved about it.
So on my second visit, Casablanca was non-negotiable. But after that first woeful Valparaíso experience, I knew exactly what I didn’t want: another bus full of people being herded from tasting to tasting with no time to take anything in. I wanted oak barrels and quiet, with time for longer tastings and even an extra glass or two. Not crowds and noise and being rushed.
I opted for a private full day tour that I designed myself, with a stop in Casablanca after a morning in Pichidangui, Viña del Mar, and Valparaíso. I explicitly told the guide straight – we want excellent wine, and no big group tour vibes, please. And he heard the call, picking Bodegas RE, which honestly ticked all of the boxes.
An exclusive vibe, a traditional feel despite its young age as a vineyard, and a private tour, in English, with a guide who knew everything – not just wine in general, but this vineyard specifically, the family’s whole philosophy, the process, all of it. Genuinely one of the best hours of the entire trip, and I say that as someone who was also trying to get back in time for England’s World Cup game.
New here and exploring Chile? Also worth reading:
- Valparaíso and Viña del Mar Complete Guide – head here in the morning before coming to Casablanca
- Valparaíso Group tour vs private tour vs DIY – pros and cons, so you can decide how you want to do this trip and have Casablanca included
- Pichidangui – a tiny seaside town around two hours from Casablanca. If you’re adventurous, you could spend an afternoon here before heading for wine
What Bodegas RE actually is
Bodegas RE was founded in 2012 by Pablo Morandé and his three children, all trained winemakers. The Morandé name is significant. Pablo Morandé is the guy credited with putting Casablanca on the map in the first place, back in the 1980s, when he was working for one of Chile’s big wine giants and clocked that the valley’s cool coastal climate could rival somewhere like coastal California for the right grapes.
Bodegas RE was his and his children’s chance to strip modern, corporate winemaking back down and do something completely different: no steel or shortcuts, just clay and wood, made the way wine was made generations ago. The family’s winemaking roots go back nine generations, so this isn’t a trend-chasing concept, it’s genuinely who they are.
Walking in is absolute vibes
The move back to traditional winemaking feeds the concept of Bodegas RE: to REcreate the past, REinvent it, and REvolutionise it. The whole building is even shaped like an old colonial house, walls built from adobe clay and hay. The Morandé family is genuinely obsessed with antiques and it shows in every corner.
Aesthetically, this place is doing everything right. Old wooden tables, an ancient sewing machine, a battered travel trunk, a proper old-style suitcase, a vintage typewriter, an old registry book, old ceramic bathroom jugs dotted around like nobody told them it’s not 1920 anymore. And it was such a nice feeling.
The Bodegas RE tour
We went for the six-wine tasting tour, obviously, because why would you do four when six is on the table. They offer options for 2, 4 and 6 wines with a tour of the underground winery and a tasting platter of fruits, nuts, cheeses and crackers. Taking 6 usually takes longer than an hour, which was all the time we had, but they sorted it out and kept the whole thing moving without ever feeling rushed.
Prices: 2 wines – $24,000 CLP ($25); 4 wines – $35,000 CLP ($37); 6 wines – $45,000 CLP ($48).
Reservations
It’s advisable to book in advance, given they’re not a huge winery you want to secure your slot.
Don’t stress too much about it though. You could likely turn up and they’d be able to fit you in, but you’d need to wait. We’d originally booked a later slot and moved it earlier on the same day with no issue at all. When we went there were only two other small groups on site the whole time, though I imagine it gets busier in summer since I visited in winter, when things are quieter across the whole region.
They also have much broader tour options including a meal pairing lunch, a picnic pairing, and a ‘winemaker for the day’. There is even the option for a winery tour with no tasting if you don’t want to drink.
You can book directly through their website, or reach them at contacto@bodegasre.cl / +56 9 9345 9114.
The Bodegas RE cellar
The cellar tour itself was a highlight. Given the move back to traditional winemaking, they make their own clay pots on site – concrete on the outside, resin-sealed clay within. You get to see the giant ones holding around 12,000 litres, where the red wine is made, as well as the smaller ones (for rose and orange wine – yes they have orange wine!!) where they actually still use large wooden sticks to crush the grapes. You get to try, if you’re brave enough (the stick is actually super heavy). Interestingly they only make one white wine here, produced entirely outside of clay.
They also have a mix of Italian, French oak, and American oak barrels, which you can take a look at and compare while wandering the cellar.
On vineyards
Bodegas RE used to grow their own grapes in Casablanca, but sold that vineyard back in 2018 because of the drought. So this isn’t somewhere you can wander among the vines, but honestly you don’t need to. The cellar and the antique-laden tasting room are more than enough.
They do still have a vineyard 5 hours south, but that’s a bit far to visit from Casablanca!
The Bodegas RE wine tasting
They had a huge range to taste. We went for the six glasses, which included a white, rose, orange, and three reds. We had the option to customise this a bit, but we preferred reds so stuck with that plan.
I’m not a white or rosé drinker, but the tastings they gave us here were phenomenal. I was also so excited about orange wine. I am partial to a glass of this from time to time so it was interesting to taste their take on it.
At each tasting, our host explained the flavours, the process, the history, and anything else we asked about. Honestly we got so much out of these explanations to understand more about the winemaking and the flavours.
There was plenty water, and our pairing platter was sizeable. We had the option to order more glasses from the bar if we wanted after the tasting ended. Sadly we didn’t have time. But I would’ve happily spent another hour or so trying some additional glasses and taking in the antique vibes.
Fun without selling
Really importantly, at no point did the tasting feel like a sales pitch. This honestly made me want to buy more. The prices for bottles to take with you were ridiculous in the best way. One of the wines I loved most was going for under $15 a bottle. There was obviously a range of prices, with their ‘best’ wine being around $100. But there were options for every budget range.
Bodegas RE actually only produce around 50,000 bottles a year. They deliberately cap it because the whole point is quality over quantity, not scaling up for the sake of it. They only export to Brazil, with a handful of restaurant agreements in Santiago and Valparaíso. So most of what they make goes straight to people who visit in person. This makes the experience feel even more special.
Getting to Bodegas RE
There are no buses to Casablanca, so your options are hiring a car (not ideal if you want to drink), hiring a driver, or booking a wine tour from Santiago.
Self-drive is easy enough, being only an hour away, and there are plenty car hire options in Santiago airport. You’d either need a designated driver, or you could stay nearby (see below).
A private driver is a good option, especially if you’re a group of 3-4 splitting the cost. Expect to pay at least $200-300 for a full day private driver including waiting time at the vineyards. I used Christian of Vamos Tours (+56 9 9237 0631) for a much larger full day tour to Pichidangui, Viña del Mar, Valparaíso and also Casablanca. He is hands down the best – highly recommend. You will either need to plan out and reserve the vineyards yourself, or in Christian’s case he was able to do this and find timings where big tours would not be there/more boutique options.
On group tours. There are tours that include Bodegas RE as part of a three winery hop and a lunch stop. This is an efficient way to do it, and good value for money given it includes three wineries/tasting entries. Though more like 2 tastings than 6…! Downside obviously this is a bigger group, so less personal experience. Also less time for questions, less wine (!) and you’ll be more rushed to stick to the schedule. Then there’s forced fun with strangers over tastings and lunch – not my thing but maybe you’re into that.
Where to stay in Casablanca
Casona el Refugio is an ideal option for comfort and closeness. Traditional wooden lodge vibes, cosy rooms, an outside terrace and pool area and a huge garden. Only a 5 minute walk from Bodegas RE, and a 5 minute drive from several other decent wineries. The hotel will be able to order taxis.
Hotel Casablanca Spa & Wine is an experience in itself. Set on its own estate, with a historic building full of character. Huge, ornate rooms, and a full spa with indoor and outdoor pools, sauna, jacuzzi massages, and self-described ‘wine therapy’. On-site high-quality restaurant and of course wine. Around a 5 minute drive from Bodegas RE, or a 1 hour walk if you want to get moving before sinking copious amounts of wine.
FAQ on Bodegas RE
Where exactly is Bodegas RE?
It’s in the Casablanca Valley, Chile’s coastal wine region between Santiago and Valparaíso, right off Ruta 68. Around 1 hour from Santiago.
Do you need to book Bodegas RE in advance?
Not strictly, but it’s best to. Tastings run alongside the cellar tour rather than as a walk-up bar, so booking ahead means they can plan your slot and how many wines you’ll taste.
Is Bodegas RE busy?
We visited in winter and in the afternoon, and had the place almost to ourselves, just two other small groups the whole time. It will have a busier rush when the tour groups pass through earlier in the day. A couple of groups of 15 people do stop by Bodegas RE, but not the larger Valparaíso day tour groups. I’d also expect Casablanca’s wineries to get considerably busier in summer, so book ahead if you’re visiting between December and February.
How far is Bodegas RE from Santiago, and do I need a car?
It’s around an hour from Santiago. There’s no practical public transport option, so you’ll want a car or a private driver. I’d recommend Christian at Vamos Tours (+56 9 9237 0631) – he’s the guide who got us round Valparaíso, Viña del Mar, Casablanca and Pichidangui in a single day, spoke fluent English, and even rearranged our schedule on the fly so we could get back in time for the football.
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