I’ve done Valparaíso and Viña del Mar twice. And the two visits could not have been more different.
First time round was a group tour, and it remains one of the most baffling days of time-wasting I’ve experienced anywhere. An hour at a bizarre service station/used clothes store (yes, really), a pungent fish market, an hour sitting in its car park in traffic we could’ve skipped entirely on the metro, and the Valparaíso tour itself starting so late I ended up bailing early and buying my own bus ticket home so I could make my evening flight home. Phew – that chaos was a mouthful.
Anyway, the good news is my second visit with a private guide who actually knew the city – best hills, walking shortcuts, good murals, proper food, the lot. It was WAY better, and made me realise this is actually a place worth visiting and not just a cheap tourist hype. Funny what a difference doing it properly makes.
Given my awful and then wonderful experiences, I wanted to note down the best way to actually see Valparaíso and Viña del Mar so you don’t end up in the same fish market carpark as me wishing you’d just sat by the pool in Santiago. Read on to see what’s worth doing.
This trip was part of a monster day trip from Santiago that also took in Pichidangui (read my complete guide here) and a wine tasting in the Casablanca Valley (see my review of the fabulous Bodega RE here). The latter you should absolutely do. The former is adorable but really out the way. Only really of interest to NomadMania obsessives and those taking a slow drive around coastal Chile.
About the coast
Valparaíso and Viña del Mar are around a 2-hour drive from Santiago. If you’ve looked up Santiago on GetYourGuide, you’ve probably already seen the Group Tours (avoid those, I’ve already mentioned why…).
Let me be clear – it is absolutely worth visiting these two coastal gems. They’re a completely different vibe to Santiago. They’re both pretty and coastal, but also it’s so interesting to see the juxtaposition between the two of them. They sit right next door to each other on Chile’s central coast, and it’s hard to say exactly where one ends and the other begins. Viña del Mar is your higher end, more poised, well-presented gem. Valparaíso is rougher around the edges, more artsy, and has a hell of a lot more character.
How to get there
Day tripping from Santiago is the most common way to see them both, and obviously how I did it given I literally only fast travel. You’re a bit rushed, but you can easily get a couple of hours in both this way – either by taking public buses, self-driving, or going with a tour or guide. All of which gets you back into Santiago in time for dinner.
Equally though, you could easily spend a couple of days taking them slow. A day in each, good food by the sea, staring wistfully out at the ocean… you get the idea.
Taking a bus is simple, they leave Santiago every 15ish minutes and you can book through Busbud or at the station itself. Self-driving is also easy enough, it’s a straight road for a couple of hours out west of Santiago. GetYourGuide tours existing in their abundance and will show you both, but as above that comes with downsides. A private driver and guide is also an option and lets you select the highlights you want to see, customise your day and timings, and be more relaxed. I did this the second time using Christian of Vamos Tours (+56 9 9237 0631) and he is hands down the best – highly recommend.
Worth knowing that uber works perfectly in both of these cities so you can get around this way if you need to. There is also a metro connecting them and stopping along the coast in various places, and you can pay with contactless payment.
Valparaíso
I will openly say that I hated Valparaíso the first time I went. And fell in love with it the second. Knowing where exactly to go is absolutely key honestly. Getting a sunny day also helps A LOT because it’s fairly miserable there when it’s cloudy.
Nowhere else in Chile looks like Valparaíso. Colourful streets, colonial buildings, an industrial and maritime theme. It also has a bustling energy in the middle of the day, and miraculously has escaped the plague of modern skyscrapers. Glorious.
It has been UNESCO-listed since 2002 – though only specific parts. Included for its unique late 19th century industrial and maritime architecture, though over time, some of the specific UNESCO-designated points – such as Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepción – have become hubs of massive murals and eccentric graffiti too.
The whole city is a series of tangled hillsides, with pastel houses, crooked staircases, and buildings that clearly haven’t been touched in a hundred years. But on purpose. I also discovered while there that this is Chile’s second largest city. It honestly doesn’t feel like it, in comparison to Santiago and if you’re only in the centre, you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s more of a town. But there we are.
Valparaíso is unfortunately known for pickpocketing and petty theft, so be extra vigilant with your stuff. Don’t walk around with your phone in your hand if you can help it, especially in the main square area, there is a good chance it could get grabbed. It doesn’t feel unsafe in the main tourist areas, but worth being aware of your surroundings.
There’s a lot you could see if you want to wander for hours (or days) capturing street art and old buildings. But if you’re looking for the highlights, I have you covered.
Street art and graffiti
Are everywhere in Valparaíso. Genuinely this is the most graffiti I’ve seen in any city, anywhere. Some of it is proper art, commissioned (or done secretly by actual artists) and beautiful. Some of it is just vandalism. Both exist side by side. The artistic kind is obviously the best, but the mix is part of what gives the city character.
The ascensores (‘elevators’ but more like funiculars)
These are one of Valparaíso’s defining features. Dating back over a century, they’re basically tiny wooden cabins that move up and down a fairly short, almost-vertical rail track. They’re the main way to get up and down the city’s famous hills without destroying your legs on many, many flights of stairs.
There are 16 ascensores dotted around Valparaíso. A word of warning from experience though: don’t just wander into a random one thinking they all go to the same place. They do not. Some lead to genuinely worthwhile art and viewpoints. Others lead to dead-end, slightly shady residential areas. I really do not mean that in a rude way, but I took a random ascensor 5 mins walk from the main square, and ended up in a totally deserted area with locals telling me I should leave asap and hide my phone.
If you see a station with a queue, there’s usually a reason people are waiting. It’s one of the good ones. If you don’t want to queue, look for the staircase option nearby instead, rather than wandering off to try a different, unfamiliar one.
Going up in a funicular is an experience in itself. They feel ancient. And they kind of are… some were constructed in the late 1800s, others in early 1900s. They’re creaky wooden boxes, and a truly unique way to still be mass-moving people up hills in 2026. It’s novelty and you’ve just got to be here for that.
Cerro Concepción and Cerro Alegre
The two hills most worth climbing (or riding up on a funicular) for the art alone. Also winding streets that are full of art. And incredible hidden away cafes and empanada stops. And more art. They’re pretty connected so it’s tricky to know where one stops and the other starts – that’s part of the magic.
Cerro Concepción gets you colourful murals, artisan markets, and some of the best viewpoints over the bay. And museums (like the Museum of Immigrants). An open area atop the hill gives you space to walk around, sit, chill, enjoy the views. Some of the most famous photo points of Valparaíso are up here, including a street of murals that a husband and wife painted of each other. You’ll find them walking around.
Cerro Alegre is rainbow steps on your way up, leading to winding streets with giant murals painted over the front of unused buildings. And some used ones. Tons of small ice cream and coffee shops line these colourful streets, with retro signs, adorable canopies – you very much feel like you’ve gone back in time. There is also a concrete slide, don’t ask me why, but looks like great fun. This one you walk through the streets taking in the views and sipping your espresso.
Baburizza Palace
Up on Cerro Alegre, on the excellently named Paseo Yugoslavo, sits Palacio Baburizza. It’s all turrets and Art Nouveau curves, and one of the most striking buildings in a city full of them. Inside, it’s now the Museo de Bellas Artes de Valparaíso, with European and Chilean paintings from the 1800s through to the 1990s, spread through rooms that still have their original ornate woodwork and period furnishings intact. The upper floor is where most of the European collection lives, and the views out over the port from up here are worth the climb on their own.
Pablo Neruda’s House (La Sebastiana)
One of the three homes of the famous Chilean poet. Now a museum that preserves how he lived. I went in knowing nothing about Neruda and honestly you don’t need to to appreciate this place. I came out knowing one thing for certain: the man had style. Skip the audio guide if you want; I did, and just read up on him in the car afterwards. The house speaks for itself either way. Views from here are also insane.
Side note though, you should absolutely read up on this guy. Not only is he notable for his poetry, which won him a Nobel prize; he was also a diplomat and had an interesting political career. He also built his mistress a now-famous house in Santiago. Interesting dude.
Plaza Sotomayor
The central square where you’ll most likely first arrive when getting to Valparaíso. Also a proper introduction to the city’s naval obsession. It’s dominated by the Monument to the Heroes of Iquique, a memorial (and actual mausoleum) to Arturo Prat and the sailors who died in the 1879 Battle of Iquique against Peru – Chile’s biggest naval myth-making moment. The Chilean Navy’s headquarters still sits right on the square, which used to be the old customs plaza back when this was one of the busiest ports on the Pacific.
It’s a good anchor point for getting your bearings before heading up into the hills, and it’s also right in front of the first stop on the metro line that takes you to Viña del Mar. There’s an Oxxo here too, if you need to stock up on snacks and water. And usually market stalls right in the centre to buy small souvenirs. Once again, be aware of your surroundings.
Valparaíso is also the only city in Chile that still runs trolleybuses
This is not a thing to ‘see’ per se but a fun fact and you can spot them whizzing around the city. Old electric buses connected to overhead wires – alongside its regular and electric bus network. It all adds to the sense that the city is genuinely stuck in its own era.
Where to Eat in Valparaíso
As a massive tourist hub, there are quite obviously a lot of places to eat in Valparaíso. They’re not always obvious, as they’re hidden down side streets. But if you google restaurants, you will find literally so many. Some actual worthwhile spots though:
Empanadas at Delicias Express – would have never found this place by just walking. It’s on the way down from Concepción Hill. Empanadas the size of your head with over 100 different filling options. They will even make you ham and pineapple if your heart so desires. Don’t @ me, I am not sorry. If you’re going wine tasting later in the day, this is the perfect lunch to fill you up for a bit, but not make you too full to enjoy your wine tasting.
Café Turri – A super varied menu, great for seafood with a huge array of options, but you’ll also find vegan lasagne, duck confit, and a whole range of sandwiches and salads. Being honest though, you’re actually here for the insane views out over the city and the ocean. The good food is just an added bonus.
Restaurante La Concepción – Right nearby to Turri, another one with exceptional views. It’s not much to look at from the outside, but inside is traditional wooden vibes (and viewing windows, of course), with a tiered seating terrace outside that genuinely looks like something from Santorini. Seafood is obviously incredible here, but they have some vegan plates, as well as an extensive list of soups, meats and pastas. And don’t miss the desserts – thank me later.
Where to Stay in Valparaíso
A quick heads up: staying in Valparaíso is going to require a lot of lugging bags up hills. If you’re driving, parking is going to be minimal.
Casa Higueras – A beautifully restored 1920s manor house up on Cerro Alegre, with a pool, spa, and historical feel (without feeling dated). Terraces where you can have dinner while enjoying views of the city and ocean, and the infinity pool (!) actually looks out over the port and ocean. Cosy rooms, wooden furnishings, four-poster beds, the lot. Highly rated and massively recommended, arguably the best hotel in the city. The higher-end pick if you want to treat yourself.
Augusta Hotel – located on Cerro Alegre, right by Baburizza Palace. Mediterranean vibes, huge rooms, a modern art feel, and – obviously – exceptional views. Rooms here also have full kitchens, if you need a break from eating out. A good mid-range modern hotel with a great location.
Fauna Hotel & Restaurant – Also right on Cerro Alegre, and built with sustainability in mind, set in an ecological building. Inside the rooms are giving mountain lodge vibes, with broader hotel interior giving artsy. There’s a highly rated restaurant also here – again with insane city and port views and a reportedly excellent set of cocktails. And there’s a spa. A great mid-range boutique option if you want character without the splurge.
Viña del Mar
Crossing into Viña del Mar, the vibe shifts almost immediately. More polish, and honestly, it looks a bit like Miami. It’s known as the “Garden City” thanks to its parks, tree-lined streets, and abundance of green space compared to its neighbour.
The story behind the two cities is actually interesting. Valparaíso used to be where Chile’s wealthy elite lived, but as the city grew more crowded – and after a devastating earthquake in 1906 damaged much of it – those same families relocated a few kilometres up the coast and built Viña del Mar as their own, quieter retreat.
It’s also noticeably safer to walk around at night here (and during the day…) compared to Valparaíso.
There are several spots you should stop at while making your way around the city. All of them 1000x better if it is sunny, but you should make it work either way.
The Flower Clock
Right by the coast, and exactly what it sounds like. A grassy hill with a genuinely working clock made entirely out of flowers grown on the hill. Apparently built for the 1962 World Cup. They’re replanted regularly so it always looks fresh. Spoiler: it’s a total tourist trap and everyone knows it, but it’s also right there by the coast, it’s free, and it takes about ninety seconds to see, so there’s no real reason to skip it. Classic photo stop, don’t overthink it.
Wulff Castle
A German-styled castle right on the coast, built for one of the elite families who moved here in the early 1900s. Slightly random, but worth seeing it to say you’ve seen it. Because who doesn’t want to see a German castle on the Chilean coast? It’s currently closed (mid 2026), but still worth walking past for the exterior alone.
Hotel Cap Ducal
Built in 1936 in the shape of a ship’s bow, deliberately jutting out over the rocks. The architect wanted it to nod to Valparaíso’s identity as a major port city, and it’s stayed a local icon ever since, even if the grandeur has faded a little since its 1930s heyday. Worth a look for the novelty value alone, even if you don’t stay or eat here. It’s pretty hilarious seeing a giant ship building just chilling on the coast with people eating on the roof.
Museo Fonck
This one is odd. It’s an archaeology and history museum with exhibits on the history of Chile. But it is actually best known for the genuine moai (Rapa Nui / Easter Island statue – see my posts on Easter Island here for more!) that is sat right outside of it. Most group tours will bring their tourists here but only to see the Moai, not to actually enter. If you’re not planning to go to Easter Island at any point in your life, then sure it’s cool to see a Moai here. Although my guide on Easter Island mentioned these ‘gifted’ Moais were actually made much later than the originals that stand on the Pacific island, kind of like official replicas.
The waterfront promenade
This is the proper coastal promenade running along the bay. Wide, flat, easy walking, with good views both across the ocean and back along the curve of the coast. The kind of stretch where you can actually slow down for twenty minutes. Grab an ice cream and wander along here. You’ll eventually get to a metro station to head to Valparaíso.
Festival de Viña del Mar
Held every February at Quinta Vergara, this is apparently one of the most historically important music festivals in South America. I’d… never heard of it after a year living in this region, but it’s said to have been drawing international artists for decades. Its cultural relevance has faded somewhat since its 1990s peak, but it’s still a big deal locally and if you’re thinking of going to Chile in February time (summer!) it’s worth timing a trip around.
Where to Stay in Viña del Mar
Sheraton Miramar – An absolute mammoth of a hotel right on the waterfront. It’s truly giant. Beautiful coastal views, and genuinely the best hotel in Viña del Mar. The rooms are spacious, many with gorgeous natural light and sea views. Indoor and Outdoor pools and lounges all overlooking the sea, extensive menus with fresh seafood, and modern interiors. A great location for being central to most things to see/do. This is where you go to relax. But it’s sexy and it knows it so there is a hefty price tag for this one compared to pretty much anywhere even comparably nice in town. Stay here if you want to treat yourself.
Pullman Vina Del Mar – A little further up the coast from Sheraton, but with similar stunning sea views. A rooftop bar and lounge area with an infinity pool, spacious rooms (many with exceptional sea views), an aray of seafood options, and a modern artsy feel in the interior. Really close to a variety of bars, restaurants, and cafes, and reasonably priced.
Hotel Cap Ducal – I am putting this here because I think the idea of staying in a hotel shaped like a giant ship is hilarious. The rooms and interior look pretty dated, and honestly it kind of looks like the interior of the Pablo Neruda house in Valparaíso… But the views are unrivaled here, not just ocean, also the Wulff Castle, the coastline, it’s stunning. The location is just up the street from the Sheraton, so you’ve got same nearby highlights. Go prepared for not the most modern experience of your life, but enjoy the novelty.
FAQ on Valparaíso
Can I visit both Viña del Mar and Valparaíso in one day? Yes, and most people do. They’re only about 8km apart and easily combined. You can take the metro between them in about 10 minutes for a couple of dollars.
Is it safe to walk around Viña del Mar and Valparaíso? Viña del Mar felt noticeably safer than Valparaíso, and this is especially the case at night. Always be aware of your surroundings, beware of pick-pockets, don’t wander with your phone openly out in your hand.
Do I need a car? No. Buses run frequently and cheaply from Santiago, and the metro connects the two cities in about 15 minutes.
Which city should I stay in? Viña del Mar is the better base if you want a calmer, safer evening scene. You can then day-trip into Valparaíso for the sightseeing.
Also Worth Reading
- Pichidangui Ultimate Guide – head off the beaten path to this quiet seaside town for the most stunning views and freshest fish
- Valparaíso Day Trip: Group Tour vs Private Guide vs DIY – know your options before you book.
- Bodegas RE: The Casablanca Winery not to be skipped – for a place to head after your morning in Valparaiso
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