Mauritania is not an easy country to visit. There are limited flight routes, no tourist SIM cards at the airport (or anywhere else – officially), cash-only transactions almost everywhere, and a road network that deteriorates rapidly once you leave the capital. Permits are required to travel north. French or Arabic is essentially mandatory beyond Nouakchott.
And yet. The iron ore train crossing the Sahara. The ancient city of Chinguetti, half-buried in sand, said to be the seventh holiest city in Islam. The extraordinary silence of the Adrar desert at night. A fishing port on a peninsula where the Moroccan border cuts the land in two. Mauritania rewards the effort considerably more than most places.
This is the complete beginner’s guide. Everything you need to know before you arrive, all in one place. For the detail on specific destinations, I also have individual guides to different cities, regions, and of course – the infamous train:
Riding the Mauritania Iron Ore Train – the complete guide to one of the world’s most extreme train journeys.
Visiting Nouakchott – an honest guide to Mauritania’s surprisingly interesting capital.
Chinguetti, Atar & the Adrar Region – ancient cities, sand-buried mosques, and a geological wonder visible from space.
Nouadhibou: How to Enjoy the End of the Ore Train – what to do, where to stay, and how to travel onwards.
Getting to Mauritania
Flights
International flight options into Nouakchott are limited. The main routes are Royal Air Maroc from Casablanca and Turkish Airlines from Istanbul – both well-served and reliable. Smaller routes operate occasionally from Dakar, though these are less frequent and less convenient.
One practical note: the Royal Air Maroc flight from Casablanca lands at around 2am, which – combined with visa fee processing time – means you may not clear the airport until 3am or later. Factor this into your accommodation planning. The larger hotels in Nouakchott offer airport transfers, which is worth doing, as taxis are scarce if you’re one of the last ones out.
Visas (as of mid-2026)
Many nationalities can obtain an evisa online before travelling (the only ones that don’t are the ones that are visa exempt). As of January 2025, Visa on Arrival is no longer possible. If the evisa is granted, you must pay the visa fee in cash on arrival at Nouakchott airport – fees depend on visa duration. There is no ATM in the visa area, so arrive with the exact amount. See here for info on the process and a link to the evisa website.
Money
Mauritania runs almost entirely on cash. International cards are unreliable at the best of times and simply don’t work in remote areas. Withdraw everything you need in Nouakchott before leaving the capital. ATMs in smaller towns may exist but are inconsistent, and in rural areas and along the train route there are no banking facilities at all.
The currency is the Mauritanian Ouguiya (MRU). Euros and US dollars are the most useful foreign currencies for exchange, and there are several exchange options at Nouakchott airport including one that operates through the night to catch late arrivals.
SIM Cards and Internet Access
This is one of the more frustrating logistics of visiting Mauritania. Official telecom providers will not sell SIM cards to anyone without a residency permit, meaning you won’t find a SIM booth at the airport, and. no phone shop will sell you one. However, like anywhere, there are more informal ways to get a SIM. The place to buy one is in the market area of Nouakchott – specifically the Marché Capitale – where informal sellers operate and sell them from the street. You’ll need French, Arabic, or a translation app to navigate the transaction. A SIM costs around 1,000 MRU (€23) and a 10–12GB data package around 200 MRU (€4.50). Most sellers will help add it for you – you’ll need to ask them as the process isn’t clear, involves calling a friend/family member/someone’s uncle.
Major eSIM providers do not cover Mauritania, so don’t count on Airalo or similar services having any options here. Some international plans from US providers will work in parts of the country but coverage is patchy.
Beyond Nouakchott, internet access becomes increasingly limited, so if your plan is to buy a SIM so you an be connected throughout the whole trip, it’s a bit futile. Some higher-end hotels and cafés in the capital have wifi (Paul Boulangerie also is a reliable options). Outside the capital, plan to be largely offline – particularly in the Adrar region, where there is no meaningful signal once you’re beyond Atar.
Language
Arabic is the official language of Mauritania. In Nouakchott, standard Arabic is widely spoken. Further into the country, particularly in the north, the main language shifts to Hassaniya, a dialect blending Arabic and Amazigh that can be harder to follow even for Arabic speakers, though communication is generally still possible.
French is widely spoken throughout the country and is the practical second language for most interactions with hotels, restaurants, and tour operators. Having at least basic French is genuinely useful, particularly outside the capital.
What to Wear
Mauritania is a conservative Muslim country. For both men and women, long trousers and covered shoulders are the baseline expectation. T-shirts and jeans are perfectly acceptable in cities. Women do not need to cover their hair, though those with light hair may choose to in busier urban areas to limit unwanted attention. In more traditional rural areas, lean toward more conservative choices.
If you’re heading to the iron ore train, the packing requirements are rather more specific. My full iron ore train guide covers this in detail.
Getting Around the Country
The main way to travel between cities in Mauritania is by road. Most of the cities do not have airports. There are very infrequent domestic flights between Nouadhibou and Nouakchott, but these do not always run, at at times the Nouadhibou airport is not operational for commercial services. Easier and more reliable to go by road.
Road travel requires planning for two reasons. First, distances are vast and petrol stations can be far apart in remote areas. Carrying extra fuel or planning stops carefully is essential. Second, travel north of a certain point requires permits, which can b checked at police checkpoints. Tour operators arrange these in advance as part of their packages, which is one of the strongest practical arguments for booking a tour rather than travelling independently.
Taxis are the main mode of transport within Nouakchott and Nouadhibou. Always negotiate the price before getting in.
Do You Need a Tour Operator?
For Nouakchott, no. The capital is navigable independently albeit you need your wits about you. For anywhere beyond it, a tour operator is strongly recommended and for parts of the north is essentially required. The permit system, the remote roads, the logistics of the iron ore train, and the lack of English-language signage or infrastructure make independent travel in the Adrar region genuinely difficult. A good tour operator transforms the experience considerably, and given how few tourists visit Mauritania, the operators who specialise here tend to know what they’re doing.
Where to Go in Mauritania
Nouakchott
The capital is more interesting than its reputation suggests. Chaotic in the traditional city centre, surprisingly polished in parts, and home to both a vibrant fishing port and the best rooftop view in the country. A full guide to visiting Nouakchott covers everything worth seeing and doing.
The Adrar Region – Atar, Chinguetti & Ouadane
Atar is your gateway to Choum, from where you’ll take the iron ore train. Beautiful desert sunset views from the nearby cliffs, but essentially a town to buy your train essentials from (blankets, scarves, plastic bags to protect your belongings). The nearby Terjit oasis is also a gem.
Then there’s Chinguetti, the ancient heart of Mauritania. Said to be the seventh holiest city in Islam, and sitting half-buried in sand, its 13th-century mosque still standing, its manuscript libraries still holding thousands of Islamic texts dating to the 12th century.
Finaly, Ouadane offers medieval stone ruins in the middle of the desert. It’s also the closest town to the Eye of the Sahara – a 40km geological formation visible from space.
A full guide to Chinguetti, Atar and the Adrar region covers the route in detail.
The Iron Ore Train
The reason most people come. A 700km freight train route crossing the Sahara, you’ll ride through the night from atop the ore carts, departing at unpredictable hours, seeing the best sunrise of your life, and arriving in Nouadhibou after a 12+ hour voyage. My complete guide to riding the iron ore train covers everything from what to pack to which end of the cart to put your bags.
Nouadhibou
The Atlantic port city at the end of the train line, sitting at the tip of a narrow peninsula split down the middle by the Moroccan border. Not a destination in the conventional sense, but a very pleasant place to rest, wander, and decompress before heading home. A guide to visiting Nouadhibou covers what to see and options for onward travel.
Practical Tips Summary
Arrive with cash. Visa fee, taxi, first night – you need euros or dollars on arrival, and enough for the trip, as ATMs are unreliable.
Sort your SIM in Nouakchott centre. It’s the only place you realistically can, and you’ll likely want data for the early part of the trip before you head into areas with no signal. There are no eSIMs for Nouakchott.
Book a tour operator for anything beyond Nouakchott. The permits, logistics, and local knowledge are worth it many times over.
Dress conservatively throughout. This is a non-negotiable baseline in a conservative Muslim country.
Don’t photograph in port areas. In Nouadhibou particularly, this is enforced by police without warning.
Bring snacks. Food outside Nouakchott is functional rather than exciting, a lot of rice and goat. Vegetarians will find it particularly challenging. Stock up before leaving the capital.
Go with a group. The Adrar region especially rewards travelling with other people, given long stretches of desert, lengthy drives, and limited phone service.
FAQ: Visiting Mauritania
Do I need a visa for Mauritania? Most nationalities need an evisa before travelling. The few that don’t are visa exempt. More info and portal here. Visa fee needs to be paid on arrival at Nouakchott airport – in cash. Amount varies depending on visa length, see link.
What is the best time to visit Mauritania? November to March. Summer temperatures are extreme – regularly above 40°C across much of the country. The cooler months make travel significantly more manageable, but nights in the desert are cold. The ore train in particular will be a freezing experience in December/January – pack accordingly. See my guide for more.
How long do you need in Mauritania? A minimum of seven days to cover Nouakchott, the Adrar region, the train, and Nouadhibou comfortably. Any less and you’ll miss these key cities. Any more might be a bit much.
Can you travel independently in Mauritania? In Nouakchott, yes. Beyond the capital, a tour operator is strongly recommended, and for travel north of Atar, permits arranged through a tour operator are required.
What language do they speak in Mauritania? Arabic is the official language. French is widely spoken and is the practical second language throughout the country. Having basic French is genuinely useful.
What currency does Mauritania use? The Mauritanian Ouguiya (MRU). Euros and US dollars are the most useful for exchange. Cash is essential everywhere, card machines are unreliable even in Nouakchott and non-existent beyond it. ATMs are also unreliable.
Can I get a tourist SIM card in Mauritania? Officially – no. Phone shops require a residency permit to sell you one. In practice – there are informal sellers in the central market that sell them on the street and will sort a SIM and a top-up for you.
Also Worth Reading on Mauritania
Riding the Mauritania Iron Ore Train – the complete guide to one of the world’s most extreme train journeys.
Visiting Nouakchott – an honest guide to Mauritania’s surprisingly interesting capital.
Chinguetti, Atar & the Adrar Region – ancient cities, sand-buried mosques, and a geological wonder visible from space.
Nouadhibou: How to Enjoy the End of the Ore Train – what to do, where to stay, and how to travel onwards.
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