Most people who visit Mauritania treat Nouakchott as a stopover – a night (at best) before heading out to the desert and the iron ore train. I’d encourage you to give it a little more time than that, because it’s a genuinely interesting city and one that massively surpassed my expectations almost immediately.
The outskirts are calm, wide, and surprisingly nice and easy to move around. Then you head into the traditional downtown area – the markets, the main Saudi mosque, the older area – and it’s exactly what you’d expect from a North African capital: chaotic, busy, loud, and completely absorbing. Watch your bag, stay alert, and enjoy it. It’s fine, and it’s fascinating.
What I wasn’t expecting – dotted throughout the city are genuinely good restaurants and cafés – modern, well-run, with strong wifi – sitting alongside the kind of rustic, make-do infrastructure you’d expect from one of the least-visited countries on earth. The contrast is striking and, honestly, delightful.
If you’re planning a broader trip, my complete Mauritania travel guide covers everything you need to know before you arrive. And if the iron ore train is on your itinerary – as it should be – the full guide to riding it is here.
What to see in Nouakchott
Mosquée Saoudique
The Saudi Mosque is the architectural centrepiece of Nouakchott. A large, striking building funded by Saudi Arabia that dominates the surrounding area. It’s the one you see when you search flights to Nouakchott. And it’s iconic. It’s worth visiting for the exterior and the neighbourhood around it, and the best view of it is actually from above. Head to the Al Khaima City Center (see below) for the full effect.
Marché Capitale
Nouakchott’s main market is busy, crowded, and a genuinely good look into local life. Go with your wits about you and your bag secure. It’s not dangerous, but it’s the kind of place that rewards alertness. Good for picking up clothes, gifts, and the traditional blue headscarf if you’re heading to the iron ore train, among other things.
Port de Pêche
The fishing port is not for the faint-hearted. It’s raw, working, and smells exactly as you’d expect a live fishing port to smell. You also have to walk through a fairly gory and equally-rough-smelling fish market to see it. It’s a fascinating window into how this city actually functions – local fishermen, boats, the bustle of a genuinely active port, locals buying and selling. Worth seeing if you have the stomach for it.
Sultan Beach
A proper white sandy beach with clear water, a completely different side of the city. Around an hour away. Head here for an afternoon of swimming and seafood in a surprisingly decent restaurant. Doesn’t look like much from the photos, but has incredible seafood. A very welcome contrast to the chaos of the city centre.
Camel Market
A little outside the city, but worth the trip on your way (perhaps not alone, the area is pretty deserted). The Nouakchott camel market is one of those experiences that you have to do, because you’re there/ And it’s a reminder of how close the open desert really is to this city.
The Al Khaima City Center rooftop trick
This deserves its own mention and a pin to go with it. The Al Khaima City Center is a tall building with a café on the tenth floor, and it offers the best view of the Saudi Mosque and the wider city. It looks like a disused office from the outside, you can easily miss it. Tell the security guard at the entrance that you want the café on the tenth floor – they’ll point you to the lift. From there you can sit with a coffee, take in the view, and feel quietly smug about knowing this exists. It’s one of those low-effort, high-reward things that makes a city visit.
Shisha note – buy it here
If you’re a shisha smoker and are expecting this to be a feature of your wider Mauritania trip, think again. Nouakchott is the only place in Mauritania where you’ll find it. You can buy a shisha, coals, and tobacco in the market area in Nouakchott. We bought one for our group before heading out into the country and used it at various points along the route – in the desert, in Atar, by the tracks at Choum. Deeply recommend if that’s your thing. You will not find it anywhere else.
Where to eat and drink in Nouakchott
Perla Restaurant – an outdoor restaurant with a relaxed vibe, decent food (pizza, burgers, sandwiches, shawarmas, fresh juices). A good evening option and a nice place to wind down after a day of exploring.
Paul Boulangerie Pâtisserie – yes, the French chain. But in Nouakchott it earns its place: reliable wifi, good coffee, sandwiches, cakes, and juices. If you need to catch up on emails or just sit somewhere cool and calm, this is your spot.
Where to stay in Nouakchott
Fasq Hotel Nouakchott – the upscale choice. A newer hotel with a restaurant, café, spa, and pool, as well as free airport transfer. If you want something polished and well-serviced, this is it.
Sheraton Hotel Nouakchott – you can’t go wrong with a Sheraton, and by Nouakchott standards (where anything remotely decent is $$) this is fairly reasonable. Giant pool, cafe and restaurant, outside terrace – everything you need to relax after exploring. Insane breakfast buffet too.
Le Patio Arabesque – a beautiful boutique option with a small pool and modern rooms. Good wifi, and the hosts are genuinely helpful with arranging taxis, food recommendations, and logistics. If you want somewhere with a bit of personality, this is the one. It’s quite out the way, nowhere near the centre. Stay here the night before heading into the desert – we did this and it worked well. Also, it’s near the US embassy, in case that matters to you.
Getting around Nouakchott
Taxis are the main way to get around the city, and you can hail them in the street. Negotiate the price before you get in – drivers will quote higher for tourists and a firm, friendly negotiation is expected. If you’re arriving on a larger flight from Istanbul or Casablanca, taxis will be waiting outside the airport. On smaller flights from Dakar, drivers may not be waiting – arrange transport through your hotel in advance.
Practical tips for Nouakchott
Cash is essential. Bring USD or Euros with you and exchange at the airport. ATMs are infrequent and unreliable, especially with foreign cards. The one in our hotel charged me for a withdrawal and never gave the money, leading to a 2 month dispute. Avoid. Card machines are also not very common – only in higher end hotels and restaurants. Just bring cash with you and save yourself the hassle.
SIM cards are not available at the airport or in phone shops. In fact, you need a residency permit to buy one through official channels. Instead, head to the Marché Capitale area where you can find SIM cards for sale on the street; you’ll need French or Arabic, or a translation app. A SIM costs around 1,000 MRU (€23) and a 10–12GB data package around 200 MRU (€4.50). eSIMs are not readily available for Mauritania so this really is your only option.
Wifi is available in the better hotels and some cafés (Paul and Palacio NKC both have it). Outside Nouakchott, don’t count on finding it.
Dress conservatively. Long trousers and covered shoulders for both men and women. T-shirts and jeans are fine. Women don’t need to cover their hair, though those with light hair may choose to in the city centre to avoid unwanted attention.
Language. Arabic is the official language; French is widely spoken throughout the city. Having a few words of either goes a long way.
There is not alcohol. Mauritania is a dry country, so you will not find any bars or stores selling alcohol.
FAQ: Visiting Nouakchott
Is Nouakchott worth visiting? Yes! More than most people expect. It’s not a conventional tourist destination, but it’s a fascinating, layered city with interesting sights and a genuinely warm vibe once you get past the chaos of the centre.
How many days do you need in Nouakchott? Two days is comfortable, one to explore the main sights and one to relax by the beach and sort any logistics for the rest of your trip. If you’re heading to the iron ore train, you’ll want to use the city to stock up on supplies and cash before you leave.
What is the best way to get from the airport to the city? During the day – by taxi. Negotiate the price in advance, which should be between 1,000–2,000 MRU (€25–45) depending on time of day and destination. At night – pre-arranged transfer. Several of the larger hotels offer airport transfers, which is worth considering. Prices are similar to taxis.
Can you get a SIM card at Nouakchott airport? No. There is no SIM store, and official telecom providers in the city require a residency permit. Head to the Marché Capitale area and look for informal sellers – you’ll need French or Arabic to negotiate.
What should I do after Nouakchott? See the rest of Mauritania! Check out my full Mauritania guide here. Oh and don’t forget about the Iron Ore Train, which is probably the reason you’re visiting anyway. I’ve got you covered for everything you need to know before riding the ore train.
Also Worth Reading
Planning your wider Mauritania trip? These posts cover everything else you need.
Mauritania: A Complete Beginner’s Guide – visas, flights, SIM cards, money, and everything else you need before you arrive.
Riding the Mauritania Iron Ore Train – the complete guide to boarding, surviving, and loving one of the world’s most extreme train journeys.
Chinguetti, Atar & the Adrar Region – ancient sand-buried cities, islamic manuscripts, and the geological wonder you can’t see from the ground.
Nouadhibou: How to Enjoy the End of the Ore Train – what to do, where to stay, and how to travel onwards.
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