It’s that time of year again. You’ll soon start seeing opportunities to book the Mt Hagen Festival (August) or Goroka Show (September) in Papua New Guinea. And you absolutely should!
I attended the Mt Hagen Festival in 2023, a vibrant gathering of PNG’s tribes to perform traditional dances (sing-sings) over the course of several days, in a competition to be the best performers of the year. I was also lucky enough to spend time staying with several tribes in the northern part of the country. It was an incredible experience that I’d highly recommend if you’re considering going to PNG, and it’s best to book up in advance!
So, what’s so great about visiting a tribal festival in PNG?
Authenticity
My absolute favourite part of the Mt Hagen festival is that it isn’t about entertaining tourists. Sure, there were a few groups of tourists there (we were one of them) but that wasn’t really the point. It was more a celebration of culture, an opportunity for tribal groups, now much more modernised, to come together and celebrate their heritage. The face and body painting were exquisite, the sing-sings mesmerising to watch, and the overall energy of the festival was electric. The face paint/dancing/outfits are not really an ‘ancient’ tradition per se – this is something that was still done one or two generations ago, and is still practiced not only for festivals but for special occasions in villages too.
Still feels raw
Papua New Guinea isn’t exactly a tourist hotspot, so staying with local tribes isn’t hugely commercialised just yet. Sure, there’s an element of that – ultimately the people of Papua New Guinea do not get up every morning and cover themselves in body paint… they do this for festivals or occasionally for tourists when they come to visit tribe-run lodges. But it feels different to a ‘show’. This is something that’s still fresh in people’s minds, and still a big part of the culture.
Be surprised by cultural differences
I expected there to be similarities with Indonesia, given the two countries share the island of New Guinea. I couldn’t have been more wrong. From language, to characteristics, to food, to religion, this was a completely different place. It could’ve been on the other side of the world for all the differences there were. Having now travelled more of Indonesia, I’d say arguably yes there are similarities with Indonesian Papua, but not as many as I would’ve expected. PNG is not really like other pacific islands either, the vibe is different and it has its own unique identity. There is also a lot of betel nut chewing… like, a lot. Red betel nut stains on the ground all over, I even saw kids trying it.
Learn about tribal history and culture
You can spend time understanding the different tribes, what they did, and why. Learn about the Dusk Shakers, where it is tradition for widowers to end their mourning period by shaking off ashes from their heads (and removing bamboo rods from their noses…). See the skeleton tribe, who developed their customary whole-body painting to scare off other tribes. Get involved with the insect hunters, who use smoke to attract creepy crawlies to eat. Understand why different tribes went to war or have long rifts. Learn it all, it’s super interesting!
See more of PNG
Many people have heard that PNG is dangerous. I didn’t feel unsafe there in a group, but there are high rates of violence and crime that you need to be aware of. Port Moresby can make you feel a little uneasy, especially at night. Visiting PNG alone to try and see a couple of towns and cities is possible, but probably not recommended. Going in a group however, visiting the festival and undertaking tribal visits together with a local company, is a much more comfortable and reliable way to see the country.
Onwards travel
PNG is also a great jumping off point to see more of the Pacific. There are flights from Port Moresby to Fiji, Solomon Islands, and Vanuatu, and of course Australia. Air Niugini is an *interesting* experience, with an older plane fleet and sometimes unreliable schedules, but connecting routes exist. If you have time to flex and can build in buffer days, you’ve got the makings of a round-the-Pacific trip starting right here! See my Oceania blogs and travel guides for more inspiration!
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