Before I went to Lake Titicaca, a friend told me that the two-day Lake Titicaca tour was “so, so, so much better” than the one-day version. When they told me what it involved, I was not convinced. I am not a roughing-it person. I like hot water, bedrooms with heating, and having the option to shower. An overnight on Amantani Island has none of those things.
It also turned out to be one of the most memorable trips I’ve taken in Peru. Here’s what the two days actually look like.
And before you read, check out my post on how to get to Puno and what to do when you arrive so you’re ready for the trip ahead!
If you want the full picture on what an overnight on Amantani is actually like – the homestay, the hike to Pachamama, the Te Inca cocktails – I’ve written it all up in my dedicated Amantani island guide →
One day or two days: which tour should you do?
This is the first decision to make, so let’s deal with it upfront. The one-day tour covers the Uros floating islands and lunch’s and a walk on either Amantani or Taquile Island – depends which one you book. It leaves early morning around 7am, and is back in Puno by around 5pm. It’s a long, full day on the water and genuinely worthwhile if you only have one day.
The two-day tour covers the same ground, but adds an overnight homestay on Amantani Island. Uros on the morning of day one, Amantani for the afternoon and night, then Taquile on day two. Back in Puno by around 5pm.
Both tours are good. The two-day tour however is significantly better, for one reason: the immersive experience in Amantani. The overnight on the island is what changes the Lake Titicaca experience from impressive to genuinely unforgettable. From the sunset hike to Pachamama Temple (yes I really said that as someone who hates hiking), and the warm Te Inca cocktails in the town square when you return, to dinner with a local family and long conversations about life on an incredibly remote island on the second highest navigable lake in the world. This last part goes far beyond anything a guided day tour gives you. I have a full post on the Amantani experience here. But the short version is: if you have time and warm clothes, do the two-day tour. You won’t regret it.
You can book the two-day tour I did here. It included hotel pick-up and drop-off and was convenient and reasonably priced. If you genuinely can’t do two days though, the one-day sister version for either Amantani or Taquile or here. Read below to decide which of the two islands you’d prefer to visit – Taquile is unique in its own right.
There’s also a half day of only the Uros Islands if you are really short on time. Do one of them though, don’t be like the countless backpackers I’ve met since who passed through Puno and just… looked at the lake and left? They missed the best parts.
On the tour more generally – it wasn’t perfect, but it was enjoyable and the itinerary and inclusions were spot on. The main bugbear was our guide, who did and said everything notoriously slowly. He had also learned the wrong translation of “mira” or “escucha” – words Spanish speakers use to get attention, like “look” or “listen up” and instead of “OK guys, gather round,” we got “EXCUSE ME.” Every thirty seconds. For two days. On a boat. At altitude. I share this not to be unkind, but to highlight that even great itineraries and experiences have niggles. With enough Te Incas in your system though, you won’t mind so much (see below…!).
The boat
You’ll travel in a large speedboat that has a covered section inside, and a roof deck and outside area. Most people head outside during the longer crossing from Uros to Amantani, and you can expect the days to be genuinely hot and sunny even when it’s near zero at night. The altitude UV is brutal though, so sunscreen and sunglasses are non-negotiable.
The boat can be a bit of a squeeze, as there are quite a few tourists all with their backpacks. Some will have giant suitcases (why though…). There are limited refreshments on board so bring your own drinks and snacks. Seriously, bring snacks. Between the long crossings and the basic island meals, you will want something to eat that isn’t soup.
Day one: Uros and Amantani
Uros floating islands
After a 7am pickup from a hotel in town, first stop of the tour is Uros, about 30 minutes from Puno port. See here for where I stayed – cheap, cheerful, and near the port!
The Uros Islands are entirely man-made, built on layers of totora reeds that grow in the lake. The Uros people have to add fresh reeds every few weeks to stop the islands sinking. Everything is made from the same reeds: the islands, the houses, the boats. They even eat parts of them, I watched a kid reach into the water, pull out a reed, and chomp away at it like it was the most normal thing in the world. Which, for him, it was.
You’ll get a presentation on reeds and how they’re bound together to reinforce and rebuild the island. We were each handed a reed to try snacking on too. You peel back the outer layer to get to the soft white centre – it tastes like almost nothing, a very faint flavour somewhere between water chestnut and mild celery. Apparently it’s reasonably nutritious. I can confirm it’s not particularly exciting but the novelty is absolutely part of the experience.
You’ll get the chance to wander around the island – just watch where you step. At any given moment some part of the island is literally sinking, and there’s a reasonable chance you’ll step in a puddle and completely soak your shoes. Not that I did that.…
The families will usually invite you inside their reed homes too, and use the visit as an opportunity to sell crafts – notably tapestries with Uros-themed patterns. I was genuinely gutted I hadn’t brought enough cash to buy one. Whilst a bit pricey at 100-150 soles ($30-40) they were actually really beautiful and I wish I’d bought one, I just knew I would run out of physical cash later in the trip if I did.
The traditional giant reed boats anchored at each island are worth paying attention to too, they’re genuinely intricate constructions that go far beyond basic transport. The Uros people build them in elaborate decorative shapes, often with animal-head prows, using techniques passed down through generations. Taking a short ride on one costs around 10 soles and is worth doing, optional but recommended. It’ll be offered as you finish up with the families, and the alternative it to get back on your speed boat and… go to the same place the reed boat is going while watching it and your group through the window. That’s way less fun.
One thing that surprised me: after the residential islands, there’s a second larger commercial island with a basic reed hotel and a bar – also serving ceviche (from the lake, presumably, though the specifics were unclear) and apparently chicken, the origins of which I did not investigate too closely. AND it had solar panels and a card machine. Still traditional in terms of reeds and basic ways of living, but the hustle is undeniable.
The thing about Uros that no description quite captures is that this isn’t a heritage site or a reconstruction. People actually live here, in the way they have for generations, connected to the mainland only by boats that sometimes come and sometimes don’t. Different tour groups visit different islands to spread the income fairly across the community. The whole system is quietly extraordinary. Yes, certain areas things are modernising – like the bar, but this is living tradition. And it’s important to see.
Next stop after Uros is Amantani, and if you’re doing the two-day tour, this is where it gets really interesting. Read my full Amantani overnight guide → for everything that happens once you get there.
Amantani Island
From Uros, it’s a couple of hours across the lake to Amantani. The crossing is one of those things where you suddenly understand just how enormous Lake Titicaca actually is.
On arrival, local families meet the group at the dock. Our group of around twenty people was split up and housed across different homes around the island, with each family taking a small number of guests. Worth knowing: it’s at least a twenty-minute walk from the dock to the houses, uphill with all your bags. At altitude, after a long day on the water. Take it slow.
I stayed with a family headed by a man in his late twenties who turned out to also be the island’s judge and de-facto policeman. He, his parents, siblings, and wider family members all lived in a simple two storey courtyard house that somehow also had room for 5 tourists. My room alone had three beds – this place was like a tardis. The accommodation is simple – a bed, heavy blankets, shared family facilities. And though there’s no hot water and no heating, there is electricity and you can charge your phone. It’s a comfortable enough stay, just pack layers and wet wipes.
The family provides your meals, but they’re pretty basic: vegetable soup, boiled vegetables, potatoes and quinoa, herbal tea. The portions are also pretty small – no criticism, ultimately they have limited resources, but to be aware. No meat is consumed on Amantani island so you will only have vegetarian options. I highly recommend you pack snacks, alongside the small portions there are also massive gaps between mealtimes.
Also – bring a gift for your host family (sweets, chocolates or have a tip ready for them at the end. It isn’t mandatory, but it shows your gratitude and others will be doing it.
The sunset hike to Pachamama Temple
After lunch with the family, the late afternoon on Amantani starts with a wander to the island’s main square to see the main buildings and monuments, and buy things from the surprisingly well-stocked corner shops. Four Loko is bizarrely available on Amantani Island, which I absolutely did not expect.
The group then sets off to hike to the highest point of the island – the Pachamama Temple – for sunset. About an hour uphill through terraced fields, past muña trees and sheep, at over 4,000 metres.
I won’t pretend it was easy. Altitude makes you breathless and I hate hiking at the best of times. What kept me going for the last stretch though, was being able to see local women near the top selling cold-ish Cusqueña beers. I’m not proud of this motivation. The beer at the summit however, with a 360-degree view of the entire island and the vast lake stretching out below, was extraordinary. It’s one of those views that makes the suffering feel specifically worth it.
At the temple itself there’s a small ceremony involving coca leaves, circling the temple, something that happens in threes, and an offering to Pachamama. I was hoping at 4,000 metres that chewing coca leaves might help with the altitude. This was not what the ceremony involved. Disappointing but memorable nonetheless.
Horses are available for anyone who can’t or doesn’t want to make the hike. The sunset itself is genuinely stunning, with the whole island spread below you, the lake turning gold, so don’t miss it for the sake of a few soles for a horse. The locals will arrange this if you tell them back in the town square.
You get around half an hour at the top to take in the sunset views and wander around the outside of the temple, but don’t hang around too long or you’ll be tripping your way back down in the dark.
One thing I noticed on the walk: the older women of Amantani wear thick black woollen scarves over their heads, elaborately embroidered with coloured patterns. I saw them everywhere on the island – it’s clearly traditional dress rather than occasional wear, and the embroidery is beautiful. Another of those small details that stays with you.
The bar in the town square
After the hike, everyone gathers in the town square where there’s a small bar serving hot cocktails specifically designed for altitude. The signature is Te Inca – muña (Andean mint), coca leaves, pisco, hot water, and possibly lemon. It’s warming and herbal and very good for how you’re feeling at that point. Just maybe don’t have more than one… or two… because altitude definitely makes drinks hit you hard, and hangovers hit you even harder. The bar also serves warm wine, cold beers, and the classic pisco sour. They do take card here, which I did not expect. Stay a while. This is one of the genuinely lovely moments of the trip and a chance to bond with some of the other travellers from different groups.
The cultural dance night
After dinner back with your host family, the group gathers in the community hall for a cultural dance night. The families dress you up in traditional clothes: ponchos for men; blouses, skirts and the long embroidered black scarves for women. And then there is dancing. Live music, locals joining in, and everyone doing their best at altitude in unfamiliar clothes. It is touristy. It is also genuinely fun. The locals aren’t there as performers, they come because it’s a community evening.
If you speak Spanish, the walk between the dock, the houses, and the town centre is where the trip becomes really rewarding. My host was guiding our small group around, and it was in those in-between moments that the real conversation happened. How the community governs itself, how the system of rotating tourism works on the island to ensure everyone gets a fair share, how people make a living. And then deeper conversation on young people leaving the island for university in Puno, something essentially unheard of the generation before. The quiet, real concern about whether they’d come back was striking. This is the kind of conversation you simply don’t get on a day tour, and one that only happens when you’re walking somewhere with someone rather than sitting in a group being guided.
You’ll get the opportunity to interact with more of the local community throughout the day and evening too. Many of the older residents on the island do not speak Spanish, only Quechua, but younger family members are usually happy to help translate some basic conversations. It’s a great way to learn more about this incredibly remote part of the world.
Day Two: Taquile and Home
Breakfast with your host family around 8am, then down to the dock for the boat to Taquile at around 9am for an hour’s crossing.
Taquile Island
Here’s what nobody quite prepares you for: there’s no choice about the hike. The boat drops you at the dock and the guide informs you that the only way to the main plaza, where lunch, the craft market, and all the interesting things are, is a 45-minute uphill walk. At 4,000 metres. The boat leaves from a point elsewhere on the island and there’s no alternative route. Well… you could stay in the boat for 3 hours and go hungry, but that isn’t really an option.
Taquile is beautiful. Stone paths through terraced fields with the lake spreading out below you. It’s also breathless and slow. Take your time.
At the top, the reward is the main plaza, a craft market, and a local ‘museum’ with a replica of the island. You’ll then head for lunch at a local restaurant nearby, where there’s a cultural demonstration before you get your well-earned food. This is where you learn about Taquile’s textile traditions, which are UNESCO-recognised. Men do most of the weaving here, and the patterns carry specific social meaning. You’ll notice it even just walking through the island, men are wandering the paths knitting as they go, working on belts and other pieces while they walk, completely naturally. It’s one of those details that makes you stop and look twice. The most memorable detail from the demonstration: learning that when a woman marries, her cut hair is woven into a belt that her husband wears every day. Demonstration complete with someone’s freshly cut ponytail. Strange and completely unforgettable.
Also: there is mandatory dancing on Taquile too. In the main square, before you’re allowed to leave, there will be dancing. Just accept it. You’ll have a better time.
After lunch, it’s a 2.5-hour boat ride back to Puno, arriving around 4–5pm, with a transfer back to your hotel.
Personally: I had a hotel room booked for the afternoon. After two days without hot water or heating, I got there at 4pm, showered, slept, and got my night bus at 10pm. Best decision I made in Puno.
Is the two-day tour worth it?
Yes. The one-day tour is fine. It covers Uros and either Amantani or Taquile, but neither in depth. But the two-day tour gives you things the day trip can’t: the sunset from Amantani, the Te Inca cocktail in the square, dinner with a real family, conversations that go beyond what you get on a guided tour. It’s more uncomfortable, more tiring, and considerably more memorable.
Practical tips for the two-day Lake Titicaca tour
Sunscreen and sunglasses – the days are sunny and hot despite the altitude. The UV at 4,000m is intense. This is not optional.
Warm layers for the night – zero degrees. Thermals, wool socks, multiple jumpers. The blankets help but the cold is real.
Snacks – meals on the island are simple and small. Bring extra food for the boat crossings and evenings.
Hotel room on return – consider booking accommodation for the afternoon of day two. Even a few hours with a shower and a bed before your onward journey is worth the cost. I stayed here which was cheap and cheerful and absolutely needed before a long night bus.
Altitude – take paracetamol, drink water, go slow on the hikes. For more on managing the altitude before you even board the boat, see my Puno and Lake Titicaca guide →
Cash in soles – bring significantly more cash than you think you need, in small bills. A longer point here because this is the thing nobody tells you before the tour and I wish someone had told me. The GetYourGuide price is remarkably low for what you get, but the real cost of the experience is in the contributions along the way that aren’t mentioned anywhere in the booking.
At Uros you’ll want cash for the reed boat ride and crafts. At Taquile there’s an expectation to contribute to the dance performance. On Amantani you’ll want cash for the bar, souvenirs, and a gift for your host family – I only knew about this last one because a friend had done the tour before me and warned me. I ended up giving the family 100 soles in cash which felt right, but I had to be very careful with what I had left for the rest of the trip. Budget an extra $30-50 USD minimum on top of whatever you’re planning to spend. You won’t regret having too much cash. You will regret having too little.
FAQ: The two-day Lake Titicaca tour
Is there phone signal on Lake Titicaca? It goes in and out. I had some connection while travelling on the lake, and in parts of Amantani, but it was quite slow. Enough to get messages here and there but not to do anything meaningful.
How much does the two-day Lake Titicaca tour cost? Varies by operator, but typically $65. I booked through GetYourGuide which included hotel transfers and food. Compare with local Puno agencies too.
Is the Amantani Island homestay cold? Around zero degrees in May (early winter) at night. It will be a bit warmer in the Peruvian summer, but not by much given the altitude. Pack thermals specifically for sleeping. No hot water.
Is the one-day or two-day tour better? Two-day, if you have the time. It’s more basic conditions and more tiring, but the Amantani experience is what makes Lake Titicaca genuinely memorable rather than just impressive.
What time do you return to Puno on day two? Around 4–5pm, with a transfer back to your hotel.
What should I do when the tour is done? You’re going to want to rest and freshen up in a hotel in Puno. After that, why not hop on a night bus to Arequipa, or cross over into Bolivia! You can read more here on how to cross from Puno to Copacabana in Bolivia.
