So you’re thinking about going to Brazil. Then you start planning, and it all falls apart. I have been where you are, and it gets better, I promise.
Brazil has 26 states plus a federal district. It is the fifth largest country on earth. Everyone has an opinion on where you have to visit, and none of them agree. Go to Rio, see Copacabana. No, skip Rio, it’s dangerous. São Paulo is just a business city. Brasilia is boring. Actually Brasilia is fascinating. You have to do the Amazon. You have to do the northeast beaches.
That is a lot of noise. All you want to know is where to go in Brazil on a first trip.
I have been to Brazil twice. The first was a short layover in São Paulo, which I loved far more than expected. The second was an eleven day trip hopping around the country properly. Here are the six places I would send a first timer, in the order I would do them.
Already planning where to go in Brazil? Check out my Brazil series
- How to See Rio de Janeiro in a Day – the tight, realistic version of Rio when time is short.
- Rio Private Tour: A Solo Female Traveller’s Take – why I paid for a private guide, and whether it was worth it.
- Ilha Grande Day Trip from Rio – the beach day Rio itself could not give me.
- How to Spend a Layover in Brasilia – one day, one hire car, a lot of architecture.
- Renting a Car in Brasilia – how it actually works, and why you need one.
- Iguazu Falls: Which Side Is Better? – Brazil or Argentina, settled.
- Things to Do in Iguazu Besides the Falls – Paraguay, Argentina and the rest of the tri-border.
- Belmond Hotel das Cataratas: A Full, Honest Review – the only hotel inside the Brazilian national park.
Now, for the top six places to go in Brazil.
1. Rio de Janeiro
Rio is peak Brazil. Everybody goes, and there is a reason for that. It is amazing.
I travel off the beaten path by preference, so I was reluctant. A party and beach city is not my vibe. But Rio has one of the New7Wonders of the World sitting on top of it. You cannot really say you have done Brazil without passing through. So I went. And I genuinely liked it.
Christ the Redeemer earns the hype. You have probably seen the photos. And it is still bigger and stranger in person. But very cool. Sugarloaf does something different. It gives you the backdrop rather than the monument. The cable car up at golden hour is worth the queue alone. Then there are the Selarón Steps, 215 stairs tiled by one obsessive artist over two decades. Loud, chaotic and genuinely lovely. My full day plan is here: How to See Rio de Janeiro in a Day
Safety, and why I booked a guide
As a solo female traveller, I was conscious about crime the whole time. Phone away, head up, no wandering with it out. That is not me being dramatic. It is just how you move in Rio if you want to feel safe, especially travelling alone.
Booking a private guide solved a lot of my worries. It also got me to city centre spots that group tours skip, like Valongo Wharf and the Selarón Steps (yes actually many group tours skip this!). Christ the Redeemer and Sugarloaf were in there too. I wrote up whether it was worth the money here: Rio Private Tour: A Solo Female Traveller’s Take
On Copacabana, you cannot argue with popular opinion. The place is great, at least to look at, and I assume with friends in tow it is an amazing place to spend an afternoon. Alone it was fine and worth seeing. But I was not going to spend hours there drinking caipirinhas, especially with my phone locked in the hotel safe. It made an excellent backdrop for a caipirinha on the hotel roof instead though. Highly recommend.
The day trip that made Rio even better
The best day I had in Rio was not actually in Rio. It was the boat trip out to Ilha Grande.
Pick up from Copacabana, then six hours on the water with four stops. It gave me the beach day I actually wanted. Turquoise water, an island to wander, a passion fruit caipirinha in hand. None of the low level anxiety I felt on Copacabana beach alone.
Beach, caipirinhas, island vibes, no stress. It delivered everything on the list.
Full review here: Ilha Grande Day Trip from Rio
Where to stay in Rio:
Stay at Copacabana and thank me later. Many places there are insanely expensive. Some are not. These ones got for around $150/night.
Hotel Astoria Palace Where I stayed. Right on the seafront, with a rooftop bar, a small pool, OK rooms. I got a good rate here at around $100 a night, though prices vary and it is usually more like $150.
Windsor California More modern rooms and a striking rooftop, slightly small pool. Right on the beach, with excellent views.
Windsor Excelsior Copacabana Suites are bright with ocean views, and the rooftop pool is large and actually swimmable. Beachfront, with excellent views from the higher floors.
2. Iguazu Falls
A natural wonder. Worth the hype. My favourite nature stop in Brazil.
The falls are genuinely incredible. Really breathtaking in size, power and force. The wildlife and birdlife around them are excellent too. Iguazu is only about a two hour flight from Rio or São Paulo. That slots neatly into a wider Brazil itinerary.
Give it two days minimum, three if you want to explore the wider area. I say that as a fast traveller who rarely spends longer than a day or two anywhere. Trust me on this one.
The big first timer question is which side to visit. Short version: Brazil gives you the panoramic wow factor, Argentina gives you more circuits, more walking and more wildlife. I broke it down properly here: Iguazu Falls: Which Side Is Better?
Beyond the falls
You are also standing at a tri-border point. Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay all meet here, and you can cross into both from the Brazilian side. Ticking three countries in one trip is a nice bonus for anyone who counts. Haters will say a two hour hop into Paraguay does not count. They are wrong.
There is more here than water, too. Ciudad del Este, the Itaipu dam, the bird park and the Argentine side’s own attractions all fit around the falls. I covered the lot here: Things to Do in Iguazu Besides the Falls
If you fancy treating yourself, one fabulous hotel sits inside the Brazilian national park itself. That is the Belmond Hotel das Cataratas. It is as good as it sounds. You get the park to yourself before the gates open. Truly a delight.
3. São Paulo
People say unkind things about São Paulo. Too big, too grey, too commercial, nothing to see. Others will tell you it is dangerous, and yes, parts of it felt sketchy to me too.
I loved it anyway.
I was there on a single day layover, and there is a decent chance you will be too. São Paulo is a hub, domestically and internationally. It connects to Turkey, the Middle East and Ethiopia, among other wild distances. If it is your transit point, turn it into a full day. Possibly even two.
The São Paulo tour that made my layover
I was short on time and had heard questionable things about safety. So I booked a city walking tour through GetYourGuide. For one day with no local knowledge and 0 research (I had been busy ok…), this was totally the right call. It got me straight to the good bits without the hassle. Also the guy who runs this tour – Faical – is loads of fun, he’s not some massive agency he’s just a guy that likes showing people around and having fun with visitors. Really recommend.
The tour had rooftop city views at Sesc Paulista building, followed by Casa das Rosas a 1930s French-style mansion that is now a cultural centre. Then Liberdade, the Japanese quarter, was chaos in the best way and a massive highlight. Stalls everywhere, and somewhere I would never have found alone.
We then headed to Cathedral of Se, and then to the financial area. Again another highlight and definitely not somewhere I would’ve actively prioritised if visiting the city myself. I’m talking a cocktail bar built inside an old bank vault and the weirdly interesting museum that’s tucked away inside the the stock exchange.
We finished at Beco do Batman, the street art alley in Vila Madalena, with caipirinhas and drinks with the guide. I got a full day tour and a night out in the space of half a day. Both things I would have been nervous doing alone. And I still made my midnight flight to Ethiopia (of all places).
More São Paulo
I only scratched the surface of Sāo Paulo. There are museums and whole neighbourhoods I would still like to see. If you have longer, the coast sits about 90 minutes away. This Santos, São Vicente and Guarujá day trip covers the coastal towns and beaches and is firmly saved in my wish list for next time I’m there.
Where to stay in São Paulo
I stayed in the only hostel I could find with curtains. Because I was not really staying at all. I paid for two nights to get one full day of accommodation and no actual sleep. Hostel maths. It was Vila Rock Hostel and it was honestly decent. Very private. Good for a shower, a rest and a bag store. Hotels in Sāo Paulo are expensive but this place was less than $50/night.
For a proper overnight, I would go for Grand Mercure SP Pinheiros (or something nearby). Because the area is great for bars, food, art and wandering. And the hotel itself is comfy, modern, good breakfast, great views, and usually costs less than $100/night. Decent.
4. Brasilia
The city that surprised me most.
Brasilia is not a tourist hotspot and nobody pretends otherwise. It is a manufactured capital, and that is the whole point of it. President Juscelino Kubitschek had it built from nothing on the empty central plateau. It opened in April 1960, after roughly four years of work. The idea was to drag the capital inland from Rio and finally develop Brazil’s interior.
Because a famous architect purpose built it, Brasilia is an architectural delight. One full day is genuinely enough to see it in its glory. It is also extremely well connected domestically, so like São Paulo, you may well transit through anyway. Build in a layover rather than a separate trip.
Do yourself a favour and hire a car. Brasilia does not work for pedestrians. The sights sit far apart, along wide boulevards you are meant to drive. Ubers between them get expensive and annoying fast. I rented from Localiza at the airport: Renting a Car in Brasilia
The architecture is the reason to come. The cathedral has sixteen white columns curving up like a crown of thorns. Praça dos Três Poderes puts all three branches of government around one enormous plaza. The scale of it tells you everything about the city. The Igrejinha, Brasilia’s first church, is beautiful inside and out.
My favourite spot was Pontão do Lago Sul, a lakeside walk lined with restaurants, cafes and gelato places. I sat there watching the sunset before heading back to the airport. After hours in a car and hours on planes, it was exactly right.
Full itinerary here: How to Spend a Layover in Brasilia
Where to stay in Brasilia
Base yourself in or around the Estrada Hotéis de Turismo. It’s a hotel area along Lago Paranoá, with great views over the lake. About a 15 minute drive from the airport with no traffic, close to the restaurants at Pontão, and close to most of the main architectural delights.
5. Salvador
Disclaimer first. I did not make the most of Salvador. I arrived off the back of a five day stomach infection that had flattened me. Even so, the city had a brilliant vibe, and I would go back.
Salvador was the first capital of colonial Brazil and the largest slave port in the Americas. That history sits right on the surface. The city is the heart of Afro-Brazilian culture. You feel it in the food, the music, the religion and the rhythm. Plus, the historic centre, Pelourinho, has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985.
Four things I loved:
Walking Salvador old town in the morning
The churches are extraordinary, and the Elevador Lacerda is a genuinely odd delight. It is an art deco lift that drops you from the upper city to the lower in fifteen seconds. It has been running since 1873. Even early on in the morning, the city has a lively feel to it.
Second disclaimer: This was another watch your phone kind of area. There were drunk men in the streets down near the water. I never felt unsafe, but I did feel I had to stay alert.
I wish I had done a proper African roots tour, to get a better feel for the history, culture, and food. Unfortunately I was too sick, but it had been on my plan from the start. Next time. Put it on your list: Afro-Brazilian Roots private city tour.
Salvador city at night
There is a food market at the Praça da Sé – Centro Historico which is absolute vibes. Stalls, live music, people dancing in the street, and the sort of energy that makes you come alive at night. There was a lot going on more generally around the city at night, lots of people wandering around, a literature festival was going on, restaurants were full and spilling out onto the streets. It was great, even as someone who likes to be in bed early.
Boat trip across the bay
If you want to get out of Salvador itself, you can find boat tours that go out across the Baía de Todos os Santos (Bay of All Saints). Usually they stop for beaches, swimming, and a slow day doing very little except hanging out in the water and drinking beers.
I went over to Itaparica (because it was a new Nomad Mania region, obv) and the shallow water by the beach was idyllic. Honestly I normally have 0 interest in getting off the boat and swimming, but this was different. I mean, granted I wouldn’t have done it voluntarily and only realised it was nice because we had to get into the water to then get to the beach. But you should experience it in all its glory. Bonus if you buy a beer from the beach bar and bring it to chill with in the water.
I also stopped for food on Ilha dos Frades which had loads of cute restaurants, cafes, ice cream places etc. It is where all of the tours bring their tourists for lunch. So be prepared for some queues and waiting around to board/de-board boats.
If this sounds like your kind of thing, then check out this Schooner tour to Frades and Itaparica. Runs for around 8 hours, will be touristy and probably have 25+ people, but gives you beach, sea, and getting out and about from the city.
The Salvador rooftops
Salvador has hotels with genuinely stunning rooftops. I’m talking infinity pools looking out over the bay and the old city that make for the perfect sunset, with bars and loungers and a very chill vibe. These rooftops are genuinely a reason to book at these places. Fera Palace Hotel or Hotel Fasano Salvador both happen to be excellent places to stay themselves and also have cracking rooftops. If you’re looking for a higher end option for your stay in Salvador – this is it. Worth the splurge for the location, all-day rooftop access, exquisite breakfast, the lot.
You can actually also just enter these hotels and go up to their rooftop to use the bar. Do that if you don’t want to splurge on the actual hotel but want the incredible sunset views.
6. Olinda (and Recife)
After Iguazu, this was the place I had most looked forward to in Brazil. I had seen the colourful photos. I had heard the hype.
Olinda’s historic centre has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1982. Designated so because it preserves Brazil’s 16th – 18th-century colonial architecture. Winding cobbled streets, colonial churches, and buildings painted in every colour going. There are also over 20 baroque churches. It’s a fully intact little corner of former colonial Brazil.
To walk around, it is a delight. The narrow alleys, picturesque buildings, colours, views. There are a lot of hills, but you could easily wander around for a couple of hours just enjoying the vibe of the city.
Olinda sits on the coast just north of Recife, up in Pernambuco. So the views back over Recife and down the coast are excellent.
The food stalls were the highlight. I had a tapioca pizza that I still think about. There is also a bizarre museum of giant carnival puppets. They are ten foot caricature heads of famous Brazilians, and yes, it is as odd as it sounds.
Another disclaimer (feels like I say that a lot…). I was also, again, incredibly ill. I spent part of that day dying quietly in the car. There was probably way more to see, do and enjoy in Olinda that I just was not up to. Despite that though I still think Olinda is very much worthy of a spot on your first Brazil itinerary. It offers something different to the bustle of Rio and São Paulo, and has a very different feel to Salvador. It does not need more than a day, but it should be experienced.
Recife
Recife was fine and no more. The downtown area was genuinely nice to walk around. There are old buildings, a Jewish museum, and a stretch that overlooks the sea. Plenty of people come here for the beach. Maybe I missed something, but I did not really get the vibe.
Olinda is also a little rough around the edges. Stay cautious and keep your phone away, as you would anywhere.
What I would do differently
We drove down from Natal, which was fine for seeing more of the country. But it is a very long way. I deserve everything I get for being obsessed with NomadMania regions. But I don’t recommend this route.
Next time I would base myself in Recife and day trip to Olinda. There is an excellent Olinda and Recife Antigo day trip option that does exactly that, combining city tours of both so you get the full experience.
I probably would not stay in Olinda itself. It is a bit quiet, and a hassle to get around and get taxis in. Stay in Recife and use it as a base.
Come at carnival if you can
Every guide I met went on about carnival here, and I understand why. Olinda’s carnival is free and entirely street based. Those giant puppets I saw parade through the old town in a fancy display. There is no ticketing and no roped off sections.
Next door, Recife hosts the Galo da Madrugada, which holds the record as the largest carnival bloco in the world.
If your dates are flexible, this is the version of Olinda and Recife to see. Just know that everything will be WAY more expensive.
Where to go in Brazil next time: what I missed
Manaus and the Amazon. You will see this is notably absent from my list. I have not been, so I am not going to pretend otherwise. When I do go, this list will grow.
Campos do Jordão is also on my list. It is an alpine looking mountain town about three hours from São Paulo. Brazilians call it the Brazilian Switzerland. I had a hire car booked for it on this trip. Then I got so ill that I flew out of Brazil a day early instead. No regrets, because I would not have enjoyed a thing. But that and the Amazon are both waiting for me.
Where to go in Brazil: the short answer
If you have ten days or so, do proper stops in Rio and Iguazu. Add one north eastern city (two if you are feeling ambitious – I would prioritise Salvador).
Then use São Paulo or Brasilia as long layover stops rather than multi-day ones. That gives you a good balance of iconic cities, natural wonders, beach, history and culture.
Brazil is enormous. You are not going to see it in one go, and trying to is the fastest way to hate it. But three or four cities in a week and a half will scratch the itch. You get a real feel for the country, and a new one ticked off the list. Woo.
FAQ on Where to go in Brazil
How many days do you need in Brazil?
Ten to fourteen days lets you do three or four regions properly. Anything less and you will spend most of it flying. The country is truly massive. You can do any of these cities above in a couple of days if that’s all you want to see.
Is Brazil safe for solo female travellers?
I travelled solo in Rio and São Paulo and was fine, but I was very careful. Keep your phone out of sight in cities. Use ride shares rather than walking, especially at night. Do not walk city beaches alone with valuables. Guided tours are worth it. Sensible habits lower the risk, but you do have to stay cautious in Brazil.
What is the best time to visit Brazil?
The dry season runs roughly May to September across most of the country. Carnival falls in February or March and is a completely different trip. More exciting, but far more chaotic.
Do you need to speak Portuguese in Brazil?
It helps enormously. English is not widely spoken, even in hotels and tourist areas. Spanish gets you part of the way, but not as far as you would hope. Google translate is your friend.
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